HomeStars News and Updates
FOCALPOINT e-NEWS!, an online lifestyle magazine and web site created by Jeffrey Stolberg has a line up of monthly podcasts from Canada’s top show hosts, authors and lifestyle experts - ten so far with more coming. Jeffrey is a modest guy with a full time job as a designer and photographer, but he has a passion for helping others in his community suffering from HIV/AIDS. He harnessed that passion by creating this site and an event in the Fall called “The Home & Style Tour” to raise funds and awareness for the Toronto People With AIDS Foundation.
HomeStars would like to help Jeffrey build awareness for these important activities, and help him build his readership and his fundraising efforts. We will be posting a monthly updates on our blog on the podcasts you can listen to from experts like Debbie Travis, Bryan Baeumler, and Mark Cullen.
This September, The Home + Style Tour will be hosted as a special feature at the Toronto Fall Home Show, Better Living Centre – September 30 thru October 3, 2010. Again Jeffrey has a big job, as he creates an exciting space full of new furniture and home furnishings at special pricing plus visiting celebrity designers to raise money for the Toronto People with AIDS Foundation.
I’ll update you monthly on our HomeStars blog for the many podcasts to check out, but better yet you can sign up to their free newsletter to get the updates in your inbox. One of the 10 podcasts in January is from Adria Vasil, an author on everything green, where she talks about greening your home air quality from toxic pollutants that you may not be aware of. These short and interesting podcasts are a great way of getting quick tips on topics you may not have otherwise thought about.
Jeffrey also has a great contest on right now where you and a friend could win a stay at Toronto’s The Fairmont Royal York for two luxurious nights. You’ll enjoy fine dining in the hotels premier dining room EPIC and be pampered from head to toe at the Elizabeth Milan Spa. Enter here for a prize valued at $1,300 Cdn. I signed up!
Posted by NancyP
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I was contacted a few weeks ago and asked if I had any interest in testing and writing about a mold remediator called Concrobium. Concrobium is described as “…an all natural solution that kills mold and keeps it from coming back – without bleach, ammonia or VOCs.”
I don’t think I bothered to read the rest before I hit the reply button and responded with a resounding YES PLEASE! We have a mold issue in our two year old house. Under the stairs in our basement is a storage space where the sump pump is located. When it rains, the water from the driveway drains into a grate at the bottom of our garage and then it flows down a pipe to the sump pump which shoots it out the side of the house into another pipe which is too short to reach the street so it travels back down the driveway and the whole cycle starts again. During long stretches of rainy periods that little room can smell worse than my boys’ hockey bags after a weekend tournament!
Mold loves damp dark places with little air circulation, a porous surface on which to grow such as drywall or wood, and an ideal temperature of between 18 and 28 degrees Celsius. Our small room under the stairs provides an excellent environment for it to breed. In the fall, when I went into the room to pull out the winter jackets, in addition to the knock-me-off-my-feet smell, I noticed little white spotty powder on the coats. While I don’t know a lot about mold, I do know that musty smell and spotty appearance of it. So, you can see why I was so anxious to try out this product.
Concrobium has been approved by Health Canada as a safe, non-toxic substance with no emissions of volatile organic compounds. It has also been registered with Environmental Protection Agency in the United States. Unlike bleach which only kills mold on the surface, Concrobium is comprised of “food grade inorganic salts and purified water” is sprayed over the mold and actually crushes the organism including its roots as it dries. Concrobium is safe to use on any surface that can withstand water including fabric (it isn’t recommended for leather, ultra-suede or suede).
I spoke with Eric Green and Brad Elder who are the President and Vice President of Siamons International respectively, about Concrobium. Siamons Internationals is the company responsible for Concrobium and is based in Toronto. Brad and Eric offered to lend me a fogger to try out the product. Foggers are used to disperse the product into larger or hard to reach areas such as crawl spaces. It was easy to use and the whole process took less than 15 minutes (okay, minus the hauling out of all our stuff that’s stored in that little area — it ended up being a good time to do a little clutter removal). Their website provides instructions on how to use the fogger and foggers are available to rent at Home Depot.
Fogger
Fogger at work
It’s important to remember that treating the mold won’t get rid of the humid conditions unless the source of the water causing it is also addressed. In our case we still need to do something about the storm water issue. In the meantime, Concrobium is said to be an effective shield against future build-up of mold as it provides an antibacterial surface preventing mold from forming.
Perhaps the biggest evidence that Concrobium is working in our house is the now absent moldy smell in the storage room under the stairs. Hooray!
For more information on Concrobium please visit their website. Concrobium can be found at Home Depot stores across Canada and the United States.
Posted by CathyR
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Mag Ruffman, Tool Girl
Tool Girl Mag Ruffman will be at the Fall Home Show in Toronto this weekend to give a presentation on using power tools, as well as hosting a workshop where a few individuals will actually be able to try them out (you have to register to attend the workshops). Both the workshop and the presentation help beginner homeowners and power tool users get in touch with their inner Tool Girl or Guy. Power tools are less intimidating to Mag than hosting a party and her mission is to try and show people that power tools are not as hard to use as you might think. The key is starting with the easiest ones to handle, and when you confidence grows upgrade to some of the more challenging ones.
Mag says there are three power tools a homeowner should never be without. They are:
- A cordless drill, preferably with a lithium ion battery which is lighter and gives a longer charge than a regular battery
- A random orbit sander which makes stripping, refinishing or smoothing any wood project a breeze; and,
- A jigsaw which can cut curves or straight and is not as intimidating as most power tool-challenged people might believe.
- a bonus tool would be a circular saw.
Mag says that people have a certain level of emotional attachment to their homes. For some there is complete despair. For others, it is their nest, cocoon, cozy, comfortable, safe haven. The difference in people’s emotional attititudes towards their homes comes down to its physical state of well-being.
Mag equates your emotional attachment to your home to Abraham Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. In the shape of a pyramid, the idea is that only after basic personal needs are met, can you focus on your own self-actualization (the top of the pyramid).
She has developed a similar pyramid of needs for your own attachment to your home.
Mag Ruffman's Pyramid of the Five System's of Your Home's Well-Being
Critical Systems: The bottom of the pyramid represents the basic building structure and envelope. Your home needs to be structurally sound, well-insulated and moisture free. If these systems aren’t working well a homeowner feels despair.
Mechanical Systems: Next in the hierarchy are the mechanical systems: plumbing and electrical. When the furnace is inefficient, or you can’t use the toaster and coffee maker at the same time without blowing a fuse, or the toilet won’t flush properly the emotional response is anger or annoyance. These items are fixable but usually require a professional.
Storage and Organization Systems: Clutter conquering. Mag’s rule of thumb: if you can’t find something within 30 seconds, a minute tops, that object doesn’t have a home. Sensible organization (and getting rid of things you don’t use anymore), can be a visually and enlightening activity. It will also save you time searching for your stuff everyday. Mag says that people can spend up to three years of their life searching for their stuff! That’s a lot of time wasted. Many homeowners don’t rework their storage areas because they feel intimidated by the design decisions and carpentry skills needed to rework their storage spaces.
Design Systems: The coverage of the horizontal (floors and ceilings) and vertical spaces (walls) with decorative finishes and colour. This is an area that can stymie homeowners, particularly if they’re beginners. Choosing the right colours is a subjective and emotional decision and it is difficult to base a choice on the tiny colour chips of a fan deck. Mag paints pieces of bristol board in a few different colours and leaves them up on the walls for a few days to watch the colour changes with the light.
Leisure Systems: The reason we like to go to all this trouble is so that we have cozy, clutter free areas in which to relax and entertain family and friends. Once the first four areas on the pyramid have been addressed, a homeowner can concentrate on creating spaces for relaxing and entertaining. If principal room walls are bare of pictures or paintings, or there is just mud where there should be a deck, a homeowner can feel embarassment when it’s his/her turn to entertain. Get these systems right and you will be confident and relaxed about your home when people drop by.
Mag Ruffman will appear on the Planning Stage on Friday October 2 at 12:30pm and Saturday October 3 at 12:30pm presenting her “Renovation Rescue Kit” for beginner and seasoned homeowners alike.
Workshops: Mag will be hosting a workshop called “Power Tools for Beginners” on October 2nd at 3pm and October 3rd at 3:30pm. Advanced registration is strongly recommended as there are limited spaces available.
Note: Write a Review at homestars.com and receive $5 off your admission to the Fall Home Show!
Posted by CathyR
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It’s been said that paint is the cheapest mistake you can make when it comes to decorating your home. The implication is that when it comes to colour, go a little outside your comfort zone because you can always repaint if you don’t like it and the extra cost is minimal.
While I firmly sit in this camp, there is always the problem of painting a colour you actually like, but if it’s in high traffic areas like entryways, stairwells and kitchens, the paint can get scuffed and banged up fairly easily. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to wash the scuff marks off your walls — or worse, wash them off, but the paint comes with it!
CIL has just introduced a new paint, “Smart3 Interior Wash and Wear” that is completely scrubbable regardless of whether an ultra-matte or semi-gloss finish is used. Further, it includes a primer and “one-coat” technology, meaning that one coat is all you need — which also saves you a lot of time. It is fade and chip resistant and will stay new looking for many years — which means you don’t have to paint as often, saving you money and time.
CIL Smart Paint Can
An exterior line of “CIL Smart paints” is available as well, in flat, satin and semi-gloss.
Cost: $33-45/gallon.
See http://www.cil.ca for your nearest location or call 1-800-387-3767.
Posted by CathyR
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I’ve been out recently a number of times talking about HomeStars among friends and colleagues. They often mention that they need a bunch of things done around the house, but wouldn’t hire a ‘contractor’ to do it. They mention things like fixing that sticky jammed door, attaching a broken piece of floor moulding, repairing a few pieces of chipped tiles in the bathroom, hang a light fixture, or even hang a picture. Any of those small things. They don’t think a site like HomeStars can help, because it’s not a big enough project.
But we can!
There’s a perhaps little known category in the home improvement business called Handymen. They do all those little things that you need to get done, but don’t have time to do.
When hiring a Handyman (or woman) you should get together a list of things you need doing. Put a piece of paper in your kitchen so you can continue to add to the list over a few weeks. When you’ve got what you consider a reasonable list, look in the Handyman section on HomeStars. (here’s the Toronto link)
The list in Toronto includes some independent individuals like Handyman Dan, Handyman Paul, or even HandyNancy, who sounds like she’s pretty good from her reviews. There are also franchises where they have teams of handymen to help out homeowners. You get a bit of a ‘big company’ backing going with companies like Handyman Connection or Handyman Matters
Posted by BrianS
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Central air conditioners are likely the largest electricity consumer in your home (unless you have a heated driveway like we do, in which case your CAC will look like an energy sipper in comparison!). There are many steps you can take to maximize your unit’s efficiency with very little effort or cost involved.
- Have your unit cleaned annually to keep it running at its most efficient. Just like your furnace, a central air system will run more efficiently if its kept clean.
- Make sure your home is well insulated and caulk any holes or gaps you might find. Use the incense test to locate drafts. Light an incense stick in a room, hold it near the windows and watch where the smoke goes.
- Draw curtains and blinds on south facing windows to block out heat. Or apply solar film to windows to cut out heat but keep light.
- Raise your programmable thermostat to 25-26 Celsius (higher if you’re away during the day).
- Use magnetic vent covers on the basement and main floor air vents to force the cold air to higher levels. The air will work its way down to lower levels on its own.
- Install and/or run ceiling fans (which use a fraction of the energy of CACs: 60 watts vs. 3500 watts of power) to keep air circulating.
- Use the stove as little as possible to prevent additional heat in the house (or cook dinner in the morning and reheat in the microwave that night).
- Switch from incandescent to compact fluorescent or LED lightbulbs. Not only are the latter more energy efficient, they emit less heat into your home.
Related Posts:
Five Tips to Help You Buy That New Central Air Conditioning Unit
Posted by CathyR
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This article is contributed by Jay Charendoff.
In November, 2007, the City of Toronto’s free Downspout Disconnection Program ended, and the new Mandatory Downspout Disconnection Program commenced. This requires that all Toronto homeowners disconnect all downspouts by the end of 2009.
For many years, homeowners in urban areas such as Toronto, living in homes connected to stormwater lines, took it for granted that vast quantities roof-generated rain and snow melt water would conveniently collect in eavestroughs, and flow quickly through downspouts into the stormwater system. This was, in fact, integral to the successful mechanical design of our housing stock when it was constructed. Generally, homeowners could ignore the functioning of this system, unless moisture problems developed. That is, until now.
It is now essential that owners familiarize themselves with the basic issues and some of the science of rainwater control, at least within the bounds of one’s own property. It may not be as exciting as undertaking a new renovation, but poorly designed drainage control systems can eventually cause serious damage, and unless taken into consideration, can result in future expensive repairs that could easily undo all the good intentions of a beautiful interior renovation.
For those who do not understand the reasoning behind the City’s decision to disconnect downspouts, and who want to become more aware of the ecological benefits as well as a wider range of stormwater and sustainability issues, the City of Toronto has an excellent resource located at: http://www.riversides.org/rainguide/index.php This site also includes a “Do-It-Yourself” Downspout Disconnection Guide.
In contrast, homes in rural areas, or within smaller towns or municipalities that do not have stormwater infrastructure are not affected by this program, of course. Homeowners in these areas have had no choice but to rely upon their own regular, pro-active observance of rainwater behaviour on their property, and over the years, likely have developed appropriate solutions to control surface runoff and drainage, thus minimizing potential damage to land and buildings on their property.
Where does all that water go if not into the sewers?
To avoid property damage, urban owners must now become more acutely aware of the next critical step: Once the downspouts have been disconnected, all the snowmelt or rainwater collected by one’s roof is now directed to one of two places: either stormwater is allowed to infiltrate (soak into the ground), or it is stored for later use (a separate topic for a future article).
I’ve noticed that disconnected downspouts and their extensions routinely dump storm water anywhere from 3′ to 10′ away from the original stormwater connection. While this may appear to be correct, it is only by carefully observing rain water behaviour over time, and during periods of heavy rain or snow melt that one can actually determine whether the placement is, in fact, effective.
I disconnected my stormlines, using a 4″ PVC pipe extension. I prefer PVC over aluminum because it is extremely tough, will not crush or dent, and the large diameter and smooth interior finish allows roof debris (leaves, etc.) to flow with less likelihood of becoming blocked. It is also inexpensive, comes with standard joint connections, and can easily be worked with simple tools. Lastly, joints need not be permanently welded with adhesive to be effective, and this gives them the flexibility to be re-adjusted at any time, while still performing as needed. PVC comes in two basic colours, black or white, so for style-conscious individuals this may be an issue. Designer-paint on PVC might be a possibility, but this would need to be tested.
PVC downspout
I extended the drain line approximately 10′ from the original storm connection. I thought this would be sufficient, however after the first big storm, I was forced to add another 4′ accordion-type extension. Even after careful placement, after the next storm, I realized that because of a subtle, barely visible dip in the front yard within 8 feet of my exterior walls, stormwater would tend to form a large pool about 3″ deep, rather than drain away quickly, as I had expected. With drainage, it may require more than a single step to get it 100% right. This led me to add the final piece, an infiltration trench, across my front yard in order to achieve correct and positive drainage.
An infiltration trench is a surface drainage feature that impermeable surfaces such as roads and sidewalks do not allow fluid to pass through them, which stops infiltration and contributes to runoff directs stormwater flow into a trench filled with stones. Trenches can be 30cm to 1m deep, 60cm to 1 m wide, and can be any length depending on the amount of water. They are sloped to direct water from one end to the other, and are used to direct water away from sensitive areas to another permeable surface or stormwater management system.
Infiltration Trench Diagram
Infiltration trench
What are the Benefits?
- Simple, low cost and effective managing large amounts of stormwater on your property.
- Can be incorporated into existing landscaping.
- Ideal for major storm events as it both infiltrates and can convey water to other infiltration and storage systems.
- Work well with other stormwater management systems.
As a proactive owner, consultant and designer, this is not only an area of personal interest, but one that I have studied. However, (and this is completely understandable), not all owners are able to make this level of commitment, this level of detailed observation, and not all owners are physically capable of making the next necessary steps.
Had I assumed that my first solution was correct, and not maintained a vigilant attitude, I could have experienced more severe water-related damage including deterioration of masonry and foundations, mould, decay and other moisture-related issues. My concern here is for owners who have now had City disconnects, and who assume that their property is now correctly and sufficiently drained. This may not be the case, and further design and action may be required to achieve this. Carefully note the following disclaimer from the City and their wise advice to engage a trained specialist for this type of service:
DISCLAIMER
The City cannot guarantee the accuracy or completeness of the information or its application to any particular property. Readers should where possible verify the information before acting on it. Where appropriate, professional advice and service should be sought from a knowledgeable and licensed contractor or civil engineer.
While we endeavour to provide accurate information, it is provided strictly “as is” and the City makes no representations or warranties as to the accuracy, reliability, completeness, currency, or suitability of the information provided. Readers relying on this information and this web site do so entirely at their own risk. In no event will the City of Toronto be liable to you or anyone else for any decision made or action taken by you or anyone else in reliance on this information. The City does not accept and specifically disclaims any and all liability for any injury, loss or damage whatsoever incurred as a result of the use of, reliance on, the information provided by the City and in no event will the City, its Councillors, officers, directors, employees or contractors be liable to you or to any third party for any direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, special or exemplary damages or lost profit, including any property damage or loss or personal injury, associated with, resulting from or arising out of any use or misuse of this information.
(source: http://www.toronto.ca/water/protecting_quality/downspout_diy.htm )
A few Tips…
- Direct the stormwater to a storage device or a permeable surface like a lawn, garden or infiltration system.
- Do NOT direct stormwater onto another impermeable surface like a driveway, sidewalk or paved path where it will simply run off the surface and into the stormsewer.
- Direct flow away from your (and your neighbour’s) house foundation – approx. 1.5 meters away.
- Avoid creating soil erosion – use a splash pad Splash pads are pads, (pavers, bricks, etc.), placed beneath the outflow of a downspout to dissapate energy and stop erosion so the strong current of water does not erode the soil.
Natural Drainage: Observe the natural drainage patterns on your property after a storm, including the paths where water runs, and where water pools. Choose a low point for your stormwater landscape solution, or a location somewhere along the natural flow path. If your yard is relatively flat and evenly drained, you can create a depression anywhere,
Vulnerable Areas: To avoid creating moisture problems, you will need to direct stormwater away from vulnerable areas, such as your house foundation or neighbouring homes. Direct stormwater at least 1.5m from the foundation of your house, and locate a stormwater management system at least 4 m from your house unless overflow is directed further (e.g. with a trench or swale).
Call Before You Dig: Before starting any excavation project, it is your responsibility to locate any underground utilities on your property. Most utilities can be reached by calling the free service Ontario One Call at 1-800-400-2255 at least one week prior to digging. Some utility providers are not participants in this free service and need to be contacted directly; check your utility bill for the Ontario1Call symbol or a contact number for excavation information.
Maintenance:
- Clean eavestroughs and downspouts twice annually to keep them clear of leaves and debris. Installing leaf guards and filters will make this easier, but will add to the initial costs.
- Replace downspouts, eavestroughs and crumpled pipes when needed to ensure clear flow.
Jay Charendoff is a graduate of UBC’s School of Architecture and has many years of experience in the design and construction industry, having worked on a wide range of prouects from small to very large. Recognizing the need for a strong consumer advocate to help protect inexperienced and vulnerable home owners from renovation nightmares, Jay conceived of House Calls Renovation Advisors about three years ago, and has been busy ever since. His motto is “Helping you get full value from your Contractor” and based on the HomeStars reviews, he’s making it happen.
Posted by CathyR
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CIL exterior stain -- Woodcare
CIL is introducing a new “eco-friendly” line of exterior stains, CIL Woodcare. The stains were developed “using a low VOC (volatile organic compound) hybrid formulation of water-based acrylic latex mixed with natural oils or alkyd resins to maximize the protection and shine of the coating.” They are available in three different “performance levels” (ultra-premium, premium and mainline), and cost between $30-$40 per gallon.
If you’re planning on staining your deck, house or fence this summer, CIL has six tips for making sure the job is a success.
CIL Woodcare stain
Exterior Staining Tips from CIL
With the introduction of a new line of exterior stains, CIL offers these tips on staining wood to ensure best results:
Preparation is key: Be aware that preparation can make or break a stain project, so before lifting a brush, ensure that the surface to be stained is ready. Wood must be clean and free of dirt, dust, mildew, algae, moss, leaves, and loose wood fibres. It must also be dry. As a rule of thumb, wait at least three days after a rainfall or washing before starting your job, or use an electronic moisture metre to be sure. Hold off on staining new wood surfaces for at least a month. For woods like cedar, redwood or spruce that have a polished or glazed finish, use an exterior biodegradable wood wash solution or sand the surface first to ensure proper penetration of the stain.
Woodcare stain
Pre-treat deck wood: Horizontal wood surfaces like decks are most vulnerable to weather damage from the sun, rain and snow, so pre-treatment of the wood is critical. A good quality penetrating stain should be applied before constructing the deck to ensure that all sides, including end cuts, help control the amount of moisture that will naturally pass through the wood and allow it to breathe. If the deck is already built, coat as many ends, sides and edges as are accessible.
Less is more: Trees have only one layer of bark for protection, so why apply multiple coats of stain to wood surfaces? When it comes to exterior staining, remember to always apply stain in light, even coats. CIL recommends applying a maximum of two coats of stain to achieve the desired colour appearance and surface protection. For best performance, stains must penetrate as deep into the wood as possible and this can’t be achieved with a thick coating. Rather than protecting the wood, a thick coating of stain doesn’t provide enough “breathing room” for the wood and actually leads to peeling, flaking and moisture damage.
Weather matters: Making sure Mother Nature is on your side can significantly extend the life of your stain project. The best time to stain is when the temperature is between 10° C and 27°C. Stain shouldn’t be applied if the thermometer falls below 10° C and if rain is expected within 24 hours after application. On a warm day, feel the wood surface before starting the job – if the surface is too hot to touch, it’s too hot to stain, as doing so will reduce penetration of the coating.
Apply like a pro: The ideal application tool for staining is a brush. Rollers, sprays and pads can also be used, but may cause more pooling of the stain. To avoid lap marks, start at one edge of the wood plank and complete a full board length at a time. Stir the stain thoroughly in the can with a slow lifting motion before and, occasionally during, use. For best results, apply the stain in the shade. Follow the sun as you work so that you’re always out of direct sunlight. Avoid application late in the day to reduce the chance of dew, condensation or frost on the surface before it’s dry.
To find a retailer near you, go to the CIL website or call 1-800-387-3767.
Posted by CathyR
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I have this vivid memory of my husband’s family home’s backyard: We’re standing there and he’s describing the summer he had to paint the wrought iron fence that surrounded their yard. It took him almost the entire summer and when he was telling me about it several years later, he was still shuddering at the thought of the intense amount of detail the job involved. There was the scraping, and the cleaning and then the priming and painting all those nooks and crannies in the fence, well, don’t get him started…. If only this tool had been around he’d probably have had most of the summer to kick back and relax.
Corrostop Metalmaster paint gun
Corrostop metalmaster paint gun
“The Corrostop® Metalmaster™ electrostatic paint gun is a cordless, lightweight application tool that coats paint on metal exterior surfaces four times faster than a brush, covering both sides of a surface at once and leaving no brush marks. Developed using 3D Wrap™ Precision Technology, the gun gives a static electric-type charge to the paint that causes it to magnetize towards and wrap around ferrous metal objects such as iron and steel handrails, fences, swings, ornaments, bicycles and garden furniture. The technology makes it possible to cover difficult-to-reach areas and paint both the front and back of objects, such as railings, from just one side.”
There’s no need for a primer or undercoat, and most of the time only one coat is needed.
The details:
Paint colours: available in a smooth, glossy finish in white, black, grey, brown and “glossy hammered silver.”
Surface coverage: each cannister covers up to “12 meters of average-sized railings — five times more than an aerosol spray…”
Application: applied between 10° C and 32° C it will dry between two and four hours.
Suggested Retail Price: paint gun, $64.99; each cannister of paint, $24.99
Where to buy: to find a retailer near you, please visit www.akzonobel.com or call 1-800-463-7426.
Posted by CathyR
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